Windmill field from afar

Hello from the island of Gotland off the east coast of Sweden!  It’s a good thing that Kate and I both bought new hats while we were in Malmö, because the weather out here has been very windy and quite cold.

Driving to Oskarshamn we saw a motorcade of vehicles with flashing lights surrounding three incredibly large trucks that, after closer inspection, were each carrying a blade for a windmill to be newly installed. It was an amazing sight that I didn’t think could be improved upon... until today.  After breakfast we decided that because it was raining we would jump in the car and drive the perimeter of the entire island of Gotland. About an hour into our journey the rain subsided and we ran across an entire colony of modern windmills - all functioning - that you could get out and walk among.  It was beautiful, and also very eerie. When you’re standing directly beneath one it suddenly becomes very clear that if anything were to suddenly go wrong you could be squished like a grape beneath a falling blade.  The sound these windmills make, too, is not like many things I’ve heard before. Kate likened them to the sound of being on an airplane, but in an airplane that whirring noise is constant - unlike hearing each individual blade pass a mere 30 to 40 feet above our heads.  And in a field of these things there is no such thing as a stillness in the air. It was incredibly cool.

A little closer

Also on our trip to the island, we had to take a ship from Oskarshamn to the port in Visby, where we are staying.  Now I don’t know how many of you have ever been onboard a ship before, but has anyone ever noticed how difficult it is to urinate standing up while on a moving ship? I’m really glad there weren’t rough waters or I might have needed a new pair of shoes! 

Now there aren’t any moose on the island, no surprise, but one of the things I’ve noticed on the mainland is that there seem to be two different “Moose Crossing” signs, as I like to call them.  The first is insinuates that “Oh hello. There might be moose in this area, if you please” and the other is “LOOK OUT: A GIANT MOOSE THAT WILL DESTROY YOUR CAR AND EAT YOUR CHILDREN!” The difference between the two signs is very subtle, but on one the moose seems much more intimidating than on the other. I hope I will be able to document the difference in photographs, but it’s difficult (not impossible) to stop when you’re on a major expressway.

Tomorrow we plan to walk around the city’s outer wall that dates back to the 12th Century, and do... you guessed it... more shopping! There are still a few people on my list, and I hope to complete at least one more tomorrow.  Then around 5:00 we’re off to our final destination: Stockholm!  I hope to blog at least once more before I make it home on Sunday evening, and I plan to do a “best of the rest” entry for photos once I’ve been back and have had the chance to mull over this entirely amazing experience.

Until later, friends...

Standing directly beneath a windmill

Looking down upon the Baltic Sea and the coastline

Gotland, Sweden

Gotland, Sweden

Visby, Sweden. Down the street
from our hotel

Visby, Sweden. Down the street
from our hotel

Helsingør, Copenhagen and Malmö! Oh my!

On the ferry from Helsingborg to Helsingør

Hello dear friends!

It’s been a few days since I’ve updated, but with the gray skies came the lack of desire to write.  Back to sunny skies in Malmö, Sweden today and lots of things to share: 

Since I last blogged from Helsingborg, we’ve been to Denmark and are now back in Sweden. We had a fun time in Helsingør (home of Kronborg Castle and the inspiration for Hamlet’s Elsingor) and Copenhagen where we did some shopping, visited the Tivoli Gardens and got to ride one of the oldest, still functioning roller coasters, along with seeing a ridiculously funny and at times good dance program by a few amateur dance squads from the age of 5 to 18 on the Tivoli stage. One of the biggest attractions in Copenhagen is The Little Mermaid statue that sits in the harbor of Denmark’s capital. Kate was very much looking forward to seeing her, and when we got there we found out that she was on exhibit in China from April until December of 2010. So we went to Denmark and all we got was this lousy billboard (see photo).

Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Once we found our hotel, Copenhagen was great... but the experience of getting through the city was a complete and utter nightmare.  Let me just say this: Google Maps will be receiving a strongly worded letter once I return to the states. Their maps overseas have been all but useless once you get into any metropolitan area. It’s a good thing I brought my Swedish Atlas and a good navigator. We spent nearly two hours, not only trying to find our hotel in downtown Copenhagen, but also a good portion of that time was spent trying to find a gas station that sold Ethanol 85, which seems to be the preferred fuel for the Volvo we’re driving, but not so much the preferred fuel in Denmark. I had to settle for regular E95, but it was either that or run out of gas. Seriously.

The drive from Copenhagen to Malmö was far easier, and I think I’ve finally been cured of my phobia for high bridges over bodies of water. The Oresund Bridge was a piece of cake.  The toll at the end of said bridge: highway robbery (no pun intended). The toll to cross from Denmark to Sweden via the Oresund was 325 Swedish Kronor. With today’s exchange rate: $45.50. We cruised into Malmö in the early evening and walked around, getting our bearings and had a nice dinner at a place called Krua Thai (Thanks for the suggestion, Charlie).

Kronborg Castle, Denmark

Speaking of food: It’s only gotten better as the trip has progressed, in my opinion. In fact, both Kate and I have compiled a list of our three favorite meals since we’ve left.

Jared's top three:

Mello Yello (Malmö):

Beef filet with a truffle bernaise over rocket salad with tomatoes, onions and chives, with deep fried potato wedges.

Strandbaden (Falkenberg): 

Duck breast with an apple, walnut and fig compote served with pancetta fried brussel sprouts and mashed potatoes

Tight (Copenhagen): A starter of steamed mussels, the Tight Burger: served on homemade ciabatta with onion, mushroom, slaw, bacon, lettuce, tomato and emanthaler cheese with rosemary potatoes and aioli. For desert, Kate and I split the Tri-Nations desert, consisting of Creme Brulee, Chocolate Mousse, and Vanilla Ice Cream with a berry coulis.

Copenhagen, Denmark

Kate's top three:

Elite Örebro:

Zander fish, in a truffle cream sauce with a side of fingerling potatos and asparagus.

Mello Yello (Malmö):

Lamb filet with asparagus and potatoes in a cream sauce

Tight (Copenhagen) - A starter of steamed mussels, the Tight Burger: served on homemade ciabatta with onion, mushroom, slaw, bacon, lettuce, tomato and emanthaler cheese with rosemary potatoes and aioli. For desert, we shared the Tri-Nations desert, consisting of Creme Brulee, Chocolate Mousse, and Vanilla Ice Cream with a berry coulis.

Outside Tivoli Gardens

We visted the Malmö Mazetti Chokladfabrik (factory & museum) today and came away with lots of delicious treats both for ourselves and as gifts for family and friends. The factory itself was opened in 1888 and was operated until 1992 when it closed. Upon reopening in 2004, they branded their own chocolate 1888, after the year of inception. They are also the only manufacturer of chocolate producing from cocoa beans, rather than powder. I just finished a Champagne truffle. It was quite delicious.

Tivoli Gardens

But food isn’t the only thing we’ve done here in Malmö. We went for a walk though the park, toured the castle, which is far more claustrophobic than I remember it being, and spent a couple hours shopping for various things such as hats to keep our ears warm and new footwear. Kate is after a nice pair of black boots, which she has yet to purchase (thinking it over, since they were quite expensive), and myself a new pair of trendy shoes like I’m seeing on the streets here on all the young men.  I had chosen a nice Peak Performance leather sneaker. They were going to be around 160 US dollars, and unfortunately they weren’t that comfortable... so I chose not to get them. If I’m paying that kind of price for a shoe, it better be damn cozy.  Malmö has also installed a new skate park since I was here last that is about three times the size of any that I’ve seen in the states and very pretty. We walked past around 6pm tonight and there were dozens of people using all the ramps, bowls and rails. It was nice to see the wide variety of age groups all “playing nicely” together without any fights or arguments.  Speaking of new construction, Malmö it seems is going through a bit of expansion. There are four huge cranes in the central area. One section is being redesigned to be more bicycle friendly and there is going to be a whole new plaza between the Central Station and the new skate park next to the Turning Torso building. While I’m sure it will be beautiful once it’s finished, Malmö seems to be having some growing pains - not to mention the disappointing explosion of American restaurants within walking distance or within the town square itself. I don’t care what anyone says, TGI Fridays should NEVER go in a historical building!

Tivoli Gardens

Tomorrow we’re headed to the new Moderna Museet here in the city, and meeting my friend Helena for coffee in the early afternoon. Then it’s off to Visby, on the island of Gotland. It’s about a 4 hour drive to Oskarshamn, where we’ll catch a ferry (for another 3 hour trip) out to the island, where we’ll spend two days and maybe (hopefully) treat ourselves to a spa treatment. I know I could use a nice massage. My feet are really working overtime, here.  I’m not sure what the internet situation will be on the island, so you may not hear from us until we hit Stockholm on Thursday.

I hope this finds you all well and although I’m having a great time, I miss my home and my cat! Hopefully my dad hasn’t adopted him as his own yet, as I’m going to want him back.  Looking forward to seeing you all soon and now it’s postcard writing time.

Until next time, friends, I'll leave you with a few more photos...

Restaurant in Malmö, Sweden

Malmö Castle

Malmö

Malmö

Turning Torso Building, Malmö

Helsingborg

It was a very gray, drizzly day here in Helsingborg, and I decided to shoot mostly in black and white. I’m really pleased with how most of the pictures came out. The Dunker Culture Centre was impressive. It's a place where people of any age can take classes in a wide variety of the arts - both applied and performance. We had dinner at a nice little Italian restaurant that served honest to goodness Italian fare, followed by a nice walk in the cool evening drizzle and a stop at Pistachia for homemade ice cream. I could make a killing if I could open one of these back in the states. It’s a snackers delight with a wide variety of nuts, candies, cakes, cookies, drinks and of course - ice cream among splashy hues of pistachio green throughout the cafe.

Last time I was in Sweden most families were on holiday and there weren't many kids out and about. Being here while school is in session has seriously made me reconsider my stance on having children. If I thought that he or she would be an adorable, Swedish speaking toe head without a care in the world, I’d do it in an instant. Of course, I’d want to raise him or her here where they could run around without worrying too much - even in the larger cities we’ve been in. It’s amazing how Swedes seem to look after their own. It’s as if they take responsibility as a whole for the upbringing of their youth. It really does take a village - and it seems to be working a whole lot better than whatever we are (or aren’t) doing in the states.

Outside the Dunker Culture Centre. Silly Wabbits.

Outside Saint Maria Kyrka

Inside Saint Maria Kyrka

Looking down on Helsingborg
from the terrace stairs of Kärnan Fortress

Falkenberg in brief...

We're due to depart Falkenberg early in the morning tomorrow, so I don't have much time to write if I want to get some sleep. I'll make this short and sweet...


The main reason for wanting to visit Falkenberg is because one of my favorite movies from recent years, titled "Falkenberg Farewell" was filmed here. It's an incredible film that, in my opinion, all men in their twenties and thirties should see. It's about growing up in a small town and not knowing what it is you want to become or do with your life, yet so much more than a slacker movie. Every time I watch it I am affected in a profound manner. We visited the tourist office and they gave us a map of some of the locations that the film used. While a handful were not in Falkenberg proper and seemingly very difficult to find, many were close to our hotel or in the old town. I've included those photos tonight. Being in some of those locations was actually quite moving.  The film is not available on DVD in the states, but if you have an all-region player it is definitely worth buying on the internet. Or you can come over to my place and we'll watch it.

I'll post more on Falkenberg when I can.


Until later, friends...

You want me to talk about food, huh?

Theater Building in Göteborg

I had a request from my friend Petrel to talk about the food in Sweden.  Where should I start? How about this: Swedes eat more bananas than any other country in the European Union. Every year the average Swede eats 19 kilograms of bananas! In case you’re not good at the conversion, that’s over 40 lbs.  I don’t know about you, but I can guarantee that I haven’t even eaten 40 lbs of bananas in my life!

Göteborg

Today we had our first ice cream treat - which is the perfect word for it when you’re in Sweden. Glass (the Swedish word for ice cream) is nothing like the ice cream in the USA, and I’m sure it has a lot to do with the lack of preservatives, guar gum, etcetera, etcetera. Kate had a cup of chocolate and hazlenut, while I enjoyed one scoop of vanilla and one scoop of Chocolate-Orange, which was a lot more refreshing than I expected. The richness of the chocolate cut with that refreshing citrus zing!

As far as the food goes: It’s pretty amazing. Our first night in Örebro is going to be hard to top. We had a gorgeous sit down dinner at the hotel where we stayed. I had the steak with 2 sauces: red wine reduction and a cream sauce that was amazing. The sauces balanced the pepper-crusted filet very well and according to our server, has been prepared the same way at the restaurant for 40 years. Kate had the Zander fish with a morel cream sauce. We have had Indian food in Oslo, quiche (greek and curry chicken) in a small cafe in old town Göteborg and gourmet pizza on the Avenyn, that although very tasty is much different than in the states. It’s an even THINNER crust than Donatos serves - and I wasn’t crazy about it. We also had our first roadside kebab stand dinner tonight. I had the hamburgare meal, which really was more the circumference of a pie and instead of just ground beef, tasted like there were spices in the meat, but not gristly like sausage. Kate had the kebab platter, which was gyro meat over a bed of lettuce and tomato. While it wasn’t the best meal we have had, it was more than adequate and definitely the cheapest meal we’ve had yet. Breakfasts are included with the hotels here, and are nothing like the bagel and a cup of coffee you get in the states. Everything  from a eggs prepared numerous ways, yoghurt, filmjölk (Google it), granolas, sausages, vegetables and fruits, and so many different breads and cheeses that you’d have to spend the entire 4 hours of breakfast to try them all. It really is quite the spread.

Göteborg

Since we didn't have any particulary sights we wanted to see today we decided to take a leisurely stroll by the canal... but it was mostly a day for shopping. I got a new pair of jeans, and made a new Swedish friend at the same store. Are they still called pen pals now that e-mail exists? I bought my friends’ child a really nice book in Swedish and English. I feel like I need one for myself to help with my Swedish vocabulary. Where’s the nearest bookstore? I bought some postcards, so that is what I plan to do later this evening. Maybe you’ll find one in your mailbox in the next week if you’re lucky. Kate bought a few gifts for family and found “Girl Who Kicked The Hornets Nest” in paperback for herself, since she JUST finished the other two Millenium books.

Nonviolence: Göteborg

Jared & Kate arrive in Falkenberg. Take 14.
Those who know about my love for cameras know what I'm saying.

We arrived in Falkenberg earlier this evening and I can honestly say that for the first time since we’ve been here that it is cold. The hotel is right on the beach, overlooking the Kattegatt (again, Google it) and the stiff wind is enough to chill you to the bone. Hopefully once the sun comes out it will warm up some. Falkenberg is definitely the smallest town on our trip so far, and seems very quaint - with an honest to goodness neighborhood just one street over. Tomorrow I hope to visit some of spots I may recognize from one of my favorite films: “Falkenberg Farewell”. So we’ll stop by the Turistbyrån tomorrow morning and see what trouble we can find.

Until later...

One street over from our hotel in Falkenberg.
A typical neighborhood.

Our hotel in Falkenberg, as seen from the pier

What's a "loppis"?

Center-city.

Word of the day: Loppis (Swedish term for what we would call a Flea Market). We saw this word roadside about 10 times between Stockholm and Örebro, and I finally remembered to Google it.

Today we woke up in plenty of time to have breakfast at the hotel and before we knew it, it was 5:00 and almost dinner-time.  In between there was walking, shopping, walking, canal boating, walking, taking the tram to the Botanical gardens, walking, picture taking, and...you guessed it: walking!  After two big walking days my dogs are tired and ready for a breather. Kate and I will be headed out for a post dinner drink and dessert soon, but thought I’d get in a bit of writing beforehand.

We took a boat ride around the city and through the canal, which was really beautiful. I’m particularly thrilled with how well this Hipstamatic camera for iPhone is working. I love the way the B&W setting works, but with how gorgeous the weather has been, it would be a shame not to use the color “film”. The blues really pop and it really is representative of what great weather we’ve had the last couple days.  I tried talking Kate into visiting the Volvo factory and museum today, but she agreed that she wouldn’t try getting me to the Rope making museum if I resisted the urge to visit Volvo.  Ahh, the wonders of negotiating. I actually don’t think we were interested in either of those things, but it was fun to joke about.  We covered quite a bit of the city today (down            by the water, the main shopping drag Avenyn, the old town and the Haga district as well as the neighborhood out by the Botanical Gardens) and the streets were filled with young students visiting the kiosks that local politicians had set up in the town center. I am guessing this was a school field trip that was used to teach classes about government and politics.

Those of you who know me well know of my love for movies, and particularly Swedish movies. Today I found my first DVD store on this trip and I picked up a few movies that I can’t get in the states unless I pay S&H from Sweden via the internet. I also was able to replace the Sweden flag sticker for the back windshield that has been missing for a few years. I can now christen the 2010 vee-dub so I recognize it in a parking lot from all the others when I get home.

Tomorrow we head to Falkenberg, about an hour or so south, but we’ll spend most of the day here in Göteborg. We plan to walk the canal, take a look at the statue “Poseidon” at the top of Avenyn, which, according to the “Rough Guide to Sweden” is ‘a giant, nude, bronze body-builder with a staggeringly ugly face (it’s true - I saw it on my 2004 visit). The size of the figure’s penis caused moral outrage when the sculpture first appeared in 1930, and was subsequently dramatically reduced’.  My opinion? If you have an ugly face, you have to make up for it in another way to distract from  your shortcomings. Apparently the Swedes of 1930 didn’t agree. We’ll get in a little more shopping - I am on the hunt for a pair of nice jeans!  I know a few of you made requests, and I’ll do what I can to follow-through.  The post card situation isn’t ideal as the ones here aren’t very nice and the ones I bought in Oslo have since been lost somewhere in Norway.  Hopefully the next couple cities will bring better luck.  Also on my list: SUNSCREEN! It’s easy to forget when it’s in the 60s how much sun your face can get.

Until next time, friends!

A bee doing what bees do best, at the botanical garden

Old town.